Bareroot and Potted Plants
Bareroot plants are harvested and planted while dormant, from late fall to early spring. Ideally, they will be planted as soon as you receive them. They can be planted in cold weather as long as the soil isn’t frozen. If the air temperatures are very low, protect the roots from freezing while planting. See below for more information on storing and planting your bareroot plants.
Potted plants can wait to be planted as long as they’re watered regularly, at least once a day, and more frequently in hot and dry weather. The root-prune pouches that we use are breathable and dry out more quickly than plastic pots. It’s preferable to keep your plants in a shady area when you bring them home. If you have to wait more than a few days before planting, we recommend burying the containers in woodchips or mounding soil around the outside to minimize water loss.
Storing Bare-Root Trees & Shrubs
- As soon as you receive your bareroot trees and shrubs, we recommend removing the plants from their packaging and soaking the roots in water for an hour. Remember, if your roots dry out, the tree or shrub can be damaged or even killed.
- If you cannot plant immediately, wrap tree roots tightly and place them in a cool, dark area where they won’t freeze. There should be as little air as possible circulating around the roots. Add moist sawdust or shredded paper to the package for added moisture retention. Check them regularly to ensure that the roots are staying moist (not wet), adding small amounts of water if necessary.
- If you are unable to plant for more than a week, we recommend “heeling” them into the ground, or in a pile of soil or compost, as follows:
- After a one hour soak to rehydrate the roots, bury the roots of the trees in a hole in the ground or in your compost pile, preferably in the shade.
- Ensure that the roots are completely covered in a thick layer of soil and that there are no air pockets.
- Gently water to help settle the soil or compost and remove air pockets. Do not let the media dry out; water as needed.
- Protect your plants from rodent, deer, and rabbit damage. The easiest way to do this is by installing a barrier, like hardware cloth. Make sure to put the barrier a few inches underground to prevent voles from entering.
- You can keep your plants heeled in until the buds begin to swell, at which point they should be planted immediately. In general, we recommend planting bareroot trees and shrubs as soon as possible.
Planting Trees & Shrubs
Planting bareroot stock differs from planting potted trees and shrubs mainly in the preparation. Remember, no dry roots!
Preparing for planting:
Before planting bareroots, soak in water with the roots completely covered for at least an hour before planting. You can soak them for up to eight hours to ensure proper hydration, especially if they’ve been stored for more than a week. It is vital to keep the roots of your plants out of direct sunlight during the planting process. We recommend keeping them in a bucket with enough water to completely cover the roots while you are planting.
Before planting potted trees and shrubs, water well multiple times. If you notice the potting soil is dry at any point, stop what you’re doing and water! Remove any stakes or ties at planting.
Planting your tree or shrub:
- Dig a hole at least twice the diameter of the root system and as deep as the depth of the root system.
- Place the tree into the planting hole, making sure the top roots sit at or just above the surface of the existing ground level. Check out this article to learn more about problems resulting from trees planted too deeply, and tips on how to find the root flare. Don’t assume that the soil level in your pot is the correct level at which your tree should be planted.
- Make sure that the roots do not circle in the hole. It’s better to prune the roots than for them to be improperly oriented. Avoid pruning the taproot if possible, and remember, your planting hole can be enlarged. Circling roots will greatly impact the health of the tree. Roots will grow in the direction in which they’re placed, so ensure they are all pointing outward towards the outer part of the hole.
- Slowly backfill the hole with native soil while retaining the orientation and depth of the roots and tree.
- Tamp down soil around the planting hole to ensure consistent soil contact with the roots.
Post planting care:
- Water slowly and thoroughly with at least five gallons of water. This will further settle the soil around the roots. Water the entire area of the planting hole.
- Top dress around the tree with a thin layer of compost, avoiding any compost touching the stem.
- Optional: add a layer of cardboard as a weed barrier. We offer customized cardboard weed mats that ensure less weeding, more moisture retention, and better root establishment of your trees. If using cardboard weed mats, make sure when watering that the water gets below the mat.
- Top with 2-3 inches of mulch to prevent growth of competing vegetation and retain moisture, regardless of whether you use a weed mat or not. We recommend using undyed shredded mulch. Leave a few inches of space between the end of the mulch and your tree trunk.
FAQs
How frequently should I water?
Some suggest daily watering for the first two weeks, followed by every two to four days for three to twelve weeks. After twelve weeks, water weekly until the roots are established. Others suggest daily for the first week, every two days the second, week, and so on.
While these guidelines are useful to understand how much water these plants really require, the best way to determine when to water is by checking the soil under the mulch. If the soil feels moist all the way down to finger depth, watering as frequently won’t be necessary.
Different sites and soils hold water differently, so use your judgment when deciding your watering schedule. Additionally, these suggestions vary depending on what time of year you’re planting (spring or fall) and what the weather is like. In a hot, sunny year, you’ll need to water more than in a cool wet year. Pay attention to the soil conditions when digging your hole, as well. If the soil is very dry, water early and often. But if it’s already moist throughout your digging area, heavy and frequent watering won’t be necessary.
How do I protect my plants from deer and rodents?
If not planting in a fenced area, we recommend a cage or tree tube at 6’ tall to prevent deer damage. We sell Plantra SunFlex Tree Tubes, which we’ve found to be the best for multi-year protection. They also offer a slight greenhouse effect that helps trees grow straight and tall quickly. Check out this page for different types of protection for trees and shrubs.
How much care should I provide in subsequent years?
- Monitor soil and weather conditions in the years after planting. During excessively dry periods, water as necessary.
- Keep grasses and weeds cleared from around the tree while regularly adding mulch during the first several years.
- When using tree tubes, be sure to clear leaves and weeds from inside the tube yearly. Small rodents can nest in the tubes and cause major damage to the tree.
- When deciding when to remove your tubes, there are a few considerations. If your tree is above browse height, you can consider removal. However, deer rub is a concern for young trees. You can replace the tube with a mesh tree guard or a spiral wrap. Please note, wraps should only be on the trees between November and April; they must be removed in the spring and replaced in the winter.
Should I prune my tree?
This is a complicated question, and the answer varies based on the species and the desired effect. Some trees, like fruit trees, benefit majorly from heavy annual pruning, but when to prune will vary based on the species. For example, apples should be pruned while dormant, and plums should be pruned after flowering.
Some species can be pruned to retain a specific form, or be left alone to grow into their natural shape. Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis) can be pruned to grow into a single trunk or left to grow in shrub form, but the best time to prune them is after flowering. Some shrubs, like American hazelnut (Corylus americana) can benefit from pruning to retain a small size, but don’t require it. There is ample information available online for species-specific pruning; we love this resource.
Planting Potted Native Perennial Wildflowers and Grasses
Whether you’ve chosen to plant native perennials because you care about your local ecosystem, because you’re a “lazy gardener”, or for any other reason, you’ve made a great choice! As long as you select your species to match the conditions of your planting site, you’re setting yourself up for success.
Our native perennials are potted in root-prune pouches. Check out this video for a demonstration.
When you’re ready to plant:
- Make sure the media in the pot is very moist or wet.
- Pre-dig a hole for your plant to the depth of the pouch and slightly wider than the pouch diameter.
- Using a box cutter or utility knife, cut an ‘X’ on the bottom of the pouch to pouch width.
- Place the pouch in the planting hole, then cut upwards while peeling back the pouch pieces from bottom to remove the pouch completely.
- Root-prune pouches generally prevent root circling. However, a potted plant may become root bound. Should that happen, it’s recommended to break up the roots before planting.
- Backfill with native soil.
- Add mulch around the base of the plant to help water retention. Water regularly, paying attention to existing soil moisture at planting, the needs of the species you’ve planted, and weather conditions. After the plants are established, watering isn’t needed except in dry spells.
- Keep the area around your new plant clear of weeds.
- Native plants usually don’t need to be fertilized, but soils generally benefit from an annual application of compost.
- Enjoy your beautiful garden and all of its visitors!
Extra credit reading:
Planting Live Stakes and Cuttings
To ensure the success of live stakes and cuttings, they need to be planted in soil that will remain moist as the plant develops its roots.
• Holes for live stakes can be dug simply by pounding a small stake or a piece of rebar into the ground.
• Pull the stake or rebar out, and gently slide the live stake in the hole. If there are significant air pockets, backfill with top soil or compost. Live stakes and cuttings must be buried at least ⅔ deep in the soil, being sure to have two leaf buds above the surface. You can step on the soil surrounding the stake to ensure good soil contact.
• Water thoroughly.
• Check out our video on how to plant cuttings.
Post planting care:
• If possible, continue to water live stakes regularly, especially through any dry spells, for a few weeks. Cuttings must be watered regularly, preferably daily, until roots establish. They may not dry out.
• Keep weeds away from the planting for the first year or so to ensure good establishment.
• Mulch with wood chips to retain moisture and suppress weeds.